Category Archives: Travel

Culture, Environment, Lifestyle, Politics, Travel

Maui Harbor Expansion Would End Surfing and Paddling There

On August 15, 2005 then Mayor of Maui Alan Arakawa noticed an increase in the use of Kahului Harbor by cruise ships. He commissioned a report. One of the findings is prophetic:

The canoe clubs fear that an increase in the number of cruise
ships will require harbor expansion, and may eliminate their
activities in the harbor altogether.

To accomodate the Hawaii Superferry, Governor Linda Lingle and the State Department of Transportation (DOT) want to expand the harbor inward by building an additional pier. This pier, the proposed Pier 5, will destroy water sports in the harbor, including surfing and canoeing. It will also prevent tug boats from turning around. However, it won’t prevent wave surge, which keeps the Superferry from docking already.

The other harbor expansion option is outward to the East, which would truly increase the future viability of the harbor while allowing the tug boats to turn around. An outward expansion would probably require a second breakwater. The problem with this plan is that it will take more time, more money and actually require more thoughtful planning than just a fancy new ramp. It won’t help the Superferry immediately, which seems to be DOT and Lingle’s goal.

DOT noted recently that the state’s harbor expansion plan would have “no significant impact on cultural activities.” Surfing and outrigger canoe paddling have been conveniently downgraded to “recreational” activities rather than cultural ones. But how is this rationally possible? The ancient Hawaiians invented these activities; and modern Hawaiians, among others, still practice them. Just because they also happen to be fun doesn’t mean there isn’t a deep cultural connection. In the 2005 Arakawa report, the cultural relevance of the canoe clubs were noted:

The canoe clubs of Maui serve many important social functions
in our community. They provide Hawaiian cultural education for
children and adults and strong positive education and support
for at-risk children. These programs are also held up as
successful drug prevention programs.

Chances are, if you’ve shelled out for a Maui vacation, you are either curious about or appreciate local culture. Certainly if you’ve decided to live here, you understand that surfing and paddling are metaphors for our way of life. It’s time for Maui lovers, both visitors and residents alike, to speak out against idiotic harbor planning that only serves one private company’s interest. Come to a meeting, wave a sign, complain to the cruise ship or Superferry management, or tell other people. Not everything is for sale.

The full 2005 Mayor’s Cruise Ship Task Force report is available at: www.savekahuluiharbor.com .

Family, food, Recipes, Travel

Kauai Vacation Rental Cooking

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My partner and I went to Kauai and opted to avoid large hotels and instead stayed in a vacation rental. We arrived pretty late in the afternoon and didn’t know the secluded area very well. Our hosts were happy to point out a few of the local attractions and resources. But by the time we finished our fabulous romantic dinner out, we realized that the local grocery stores were already closed. At a loss for what to eat in the morning for breakfast (it was not included with the rental, but a kitchen was), we decided to play random cupboard cooking.

We stopped at the only open convenience mart. With a nervous eyes on several teenage boys on the verge of mischief, the clerk rang up our 12-pack of eggs and bottled water without a smile. We figured we could do make just about anything work with eggs, and since we hadn’t eaten them in a while they actually sounded good. Everything else in the store was loaded with sugar or high fructose corn syrup so we didn’t have so many choices. Sensing trouble from the teens who had begun to eye us, we grabbed our eggs and hopped into our rental car.

The next morning we woke up to the delightful sounds of tropical birds chirping and looking forward to a long day of hiking through Waimea Canyon. Breakfast is all the stood between us and the trail. So we pulled the eggs from the fridge and surveyed the cupboards. Hoping to find some edible and compatible ingredients, we scored big on a half-eaten bag of long-grain brown rice. Soy sauce in the fridge pointed to a very solid start.

We brewed a pot of tea and imagined bacon crisping in the pan alongside the eggs. Without any on hand, I went in search of something to round out the the meal and found a couple of canned items in the top cupboard above the fridge. I wondered about the vacationers who left them: How long ago were they here? Were they on their honeymoon or retirees finding a second wind? Where were they from? Did they usually eat canned food?

While my partner sauteed the eggs and kept a watchful eye on the rice, I stared at the canned food selection and finally chose the green beans and beets. Flashbacks of church socials during childhood, when all vegetables came from cans (an experience I hadn’t had in the years since I discovered farmer’s markets), reassured me that these combined well. I opened, drained, tossed them together with some dried Italian seasoning, and voila an appealing side dish.

We gobbled down the eggs, rice and canned veggie salad. Fueled and ready to hike, we drove to the top of Waimea Canyon and found our trailhead. We spent the rest of the day carelessly taking in the island’s stunning beauty, not worrying at all about what was for dinner.

Dining, food, Lifestyle, Travel

Places to Eat in Kihei Maui

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Kihei, Maui is famous for long stretches of sandy beaches, golden sunsets and an abundance of vacation rentals. What are the best places to eat?

I’ll start with the disclaimer: This is a local knowledge list written with a bias for great food, low prices and hole in the wall joints. Mainland chain restaurants aren’t included. So if you’re looking for details about Cheeseburger in Paradise or Starbucks, this isn’t the place to find it. The local yellow pages is your best bet since all of those places pride themselves on being the same.

Where to Eat in Kihei

Let’s start with breakfast and lunch. My personal favorites are Big Wave Cafe and Stella Blues. Both offer generous portions, reasonable prices and tasty food. You can take the kids. They are located in strip malls so don’t expect a fancy ocean view or upscale wine lists. These are just great places to grab a bite.

For dinner, there are a lot of great choices. Sansei, the upscale sushi bar, offers an early bird special of half-price sushi before 6 PM making these otherwise spendy bites downright affordable. But you have to get there early (as the special name implies). People start lining up well before 5 PM.

Roy’s is another great choice. The food is always top quality and the consistently high level of service is a relief after a week of waving your waiter down. Kids are more than welcome, and they bust out a big toy chest to keep them busy while you sip wines made especially for their cuisine and down appetizers that arrive in only minutes after ordering. Don’t forget the chocolate souffle best accompanied by a glass of Banyuls desert wine. They do have locations on the Mainland and are a chain, but since Roy’s first restaurant was on Oahu, it counts as local.

Cafe O’Lei floats like a glittering island of gourmet in a sea of strip mall take-out joints. The raw oyster bar, fresh fish and groovy vibe means that place is packed solid every night. Make reservations and enjoy your stroll to your table past the less-savvy crowds. Prices aren’t cheap, but the quality is deserving.

Longhi’s is always popular because people like Italian. If you’re really into authentic Italian, however, this is not your place. But they do have a good wine list, and the food will satisfy a craving for a decent pasta but not much more.

Shangri-La By the Sea, an Indian restaurant, recently opened in the Menehune Shores Condo complex. Indian has not been reliable or good in Maui until now. For vegetarians, it’s a dream come true. See my blog entry “Kihei, Maui, Hosts new Indian Restaurant” for more details.

Bon appetit!